Achutupu and its nearby islands lie on the eastern part of the San Blas archipelago and house some of the most remote villages in the Guna Yala territory. These islands are located very close to the Colombian border – less than 100 kilometers away. The administration of this entire region is under the Gunas and they have managed to protect the islands against pirates and colonists. They even stopped scientists from the Smithsonian from entering their villages! The main reason why the Gunas are very careful about visitors is that they do not want to lose their cultural identity and be forced to assimilate into the modern world.
Though this region is remote from the mainland, it has been subject to overfishing. Scientists have found the coral here to be highly diverse. Certain islands provide snorkeling activities and boat tours. Some of the islands have mangroves with different species of wildlife. In the waters, you can observe dolphins, manatees and manta rays.
These islands are unlike the typical tourist islands with upscale resorts and numerous water activities. The best thing to do here is relax and rejuvenate, get away from the modern world and observe the local culture. This will be unlike any experience you have ever had.
Make sure you follow the rules of Guna Yala while you are here. Fishing and scuba diving are not allowed in certain areas. Inquire about such water activities before proceeding with them. Be respectful of their culture and do not engage in offensive behavior as they are very sensitive about their cultural identity. Ask for permission before taking any pictures. Keep the surroundings clean; you will also note that the waters here are exceptionally clear and blue.
Achutupu
It is known as Achutupu in the Guna language and is better known as Isla Perro in Spanish. Do not confuse this Achutupu with the more popular one also known as Dog Island, which is located close to El Porvenir. Achutupu is shaped like a crescent. This village serves as a gateway to the eastern region of the San Blas archipelago as it has an airport and flights to Panama City on a daily basis. It is located less than a kilometer away from the Guna Yala mainland. This island town is one of the most distant from the other islands and as such, you can observe a rich native culture here. Though there are visitors, the Guna culture remains strong and unaffected by modern changes. So this island is a great place to visit if you want to study the Guna culture. The handicrafts and molas that are made here are of better work and quality than the ones available on the western islands.
There is a community house located in the middle of the village where ceremonies and rituals take place and the entire village gathers to take part. Sometimes, you might also be allowed to witness the proceedings, maybe a wedding or puberty ceremony. There is a small piece of land near the waters which serves as a beach. The island also has a primary school, basketball court, and a health center.
Akwadup
This island is dotted with coconut trees and offers panoramic views of the Caribbean. The amazing coral reefs near the island are the largest in the archipelago, making for perfect snorkeling.
Aligandi
This village plays an important role in the history of the Gunas. It was the center of the action during the revolt of 1925. You can visit the museum and cultural center known as Museo Olonigli; it houses texts, artifacts, and other items related to the revolution. The Guna Flag is also on display, along with a statue of a famous revolutionary, Simral Colman. Fishing is popular here and you can request to taste the Gunas’ seafood dishes.
Uaguitupu
It is located to the left of Achutupu Island and takes less than a minute to travel by boat between the two islands. This island is popularly known as Dolphin Island and has some good accommodations here. As a result, it welcomes more visitors than the other islands in the vicinity. There are several thatched Guna huts on one half of the island and a lodge on the other. The island is very pretty and picturesque with its clusters of palm trees. There isn’t a proper beach here and it acts as a place where you can just relax on hammocks for hours together amidst the tranquil atmosphere and sounds of the sea.
Mamitupu
This Guna village has a population of around one thousand and their shore is lined with canoes. You can see women and children selling fruits, vegetables, and handicrafts on these canoes. This traditional village also has an airstrip that has regular flights to and from Panama City. Keep in mind that they do not allow photography here so make sure you get the required permission. Beds and hammocks are provided for visitors.
Getting There
The only option to reach this cluster of islands is by air. There is an airport, which is basically a single landing strip on the island of Achutupu which will connect you to the eastern part of the San Blas archipelago. Air Panama has regular flights from here to Panama City and back. From here, you can easily reach the other islands by boat. In addition to this, there is another landing strip on the island of Mamitupu with weekly flights to and from Panama City.
Stay and Food
All the accommodations here offer basic facilities, meals, and boat transfers. You will not find any separate restaurants in this area.
Dolphin Lodge
This lodge is run by a local Guna family and is considered as a posh stay in this part of the archipelago. There is a cluster of thatched cabins with basic furniture and private bathrooms; cold water is available. The lodge has solar power. There is a common dining area that provides meals based on the local cuisine; it is located on one end of the lodge and faces the waters.
Akwadup Lodge
This lodge was started by the owners of the Dolphin Lodge on the island of Akwadup and is fairly new. There are seven thatched cabins with private bathrooms, cold water, mosquito nets, and ceiling fans. All of the cabins are situated above water and have amazing views of the sea. There are terraces with hammocks and a restaurant, and a bar as well.
Dad Ibe Lodge
This is the latest addition and it is located on a private island ten minutes away from Ailigandi. It is similar to the other stays in the area and has cabins that are located directly above the water. There are private bathrooms and cold water. Your stay would include meals. The cabins have balconies from where you can enjoy the scenic views of the waters and nearby islands. Day trips arranged for guests to the nearby uninhabited islands and mangrove forests can be arranged.
What’s Nearby?
