Corazon de Jesus (Aggwanusabud) and Nargana (Yandup) are two densely populated islands that find themselves in the vicinity of the San Blas Archipelago. The islands are set some 40 kilometers east of El Porvenir (capital of the Guna Yala Province) and are separated by a short wooden footbridge. These islands are the more westernized and modernized of the lot, featuring concrete houses instead of thatched huts and electricity that runs 24/7, which is quite rare in the Comarca. These modern influences have set these atolls apart from the traditional Guna culture, which is why they are of little interest to travelers. People here are generally seen donning western attire and speaking both Spanish and English. The All Island Baseball Tournament is a marquee event organized every year in the local baseball stadium.
Isla Nargana is located at the southwestern end of the footbridge, housing the Comarca’s only jail and courtroom, along with a police station, a bank, a hospital, and a school. A beautiful statue of Charles Robinson stands in the middle of the town; a man who played a vital role in Guna’s battle with Panama in 1925. The islands also serve as facility stations for Isla Tigre, a traditional island located nearby. Although these islands are more urbanized compared to other islands in the Guna Yala Province, they do provide some basic amenities that can be helpful to travelers.
Short boat trips from Corazon de Jesus and Nargana can lead you to some of the most beautiful islands in the district.
Isla Waidup
Isla Waidup is a little privately owned isle located a stone’s throw away from Corazon de Jesus and Nargana. Waidup Lodge is a great accommodation available here offering simple but comfortable cabins floating on stilts over the water. All of these cabins come with soft mattresses, straw walls woven by the locals, and beautiful private balconies facing the sea. There are private bathrooms with all the modern facilities, but the water is unheated. A small bar-restaurant is available on site. Guests can indulge in swimming and snorkeling in nearby waters. Owners of the lodge also arrange guided tours to Isla Tigre.
Isla Tigre (Digir Dubu)
This beautiful traditional island in the province is located just a short boat ride away from Corazon de Jesus and Nargana. Isla Tigre (also known as ‘Digir Dubu’) ranks among the most traditionally sensitive islands in the whole district of Guna Yala. The island is less populated, providing enough opportunity for travelers to interact with the local Guna. Guests are encouraged to hire a local guide for touring this culturally rich island where homes are separated by wide streets and walkways. The island hosts some of the most significant traditional events in the archipelago. Traditional dances are also performed by indigenous people free of cost, but offering a tip would be a good gesture.
Cabanas Digir
Cabanas Digir offers tremendous accommodation facilities in Digir Dubu. Two bamboo and thatched huts on offer feature beautiful balconies, colorful hammocks, shared bathrooms, and other facilities. Three others that are constructed on stilts near the beaches are more desirable. These cabins placed near the beaches are raised over crystal-clear and calm turquoise waters, delivering perfect conditions for snorkeling and kayaking, although the gear for such activities is an extra charge.
An on-site restaurant is open from 10 AM to 3 PM and 6 PM to 10 PM where seafood meals are prepared by the hosts including fish and lobster. Guests enjoy an ample amount of space for taking in the scintillating views of the sea through the cabin balconies or collecting their thoughts while relaxing in hammocks between the palm trees. Here you can also witness the typical village life of the Gunas, who are friendlier in this area compared to the other, more crowded islands. Striking a conversation with some of them will enrich your knowledge of their beautiful culture, traditions, and lifestyle.
Chocosanos
Chocosanos are the ghastly winds that come from the east of Guna; they create monstrous waves with the capacity to overrun entire islands. Most of the mishaps in Wreck Reef are credited to these storms. Travelers, in order to save themselves from such a stormy attack, should keep an eye on warning signals such as the sky turning purple-black and the breeze suddenly dying down. All these changes are considered indications of approaching Chocosanos.
Gunas have a traditional way of combating Chocosanos. Elderly Gunas blow into conch shells to alert their benign God, Paba Tummat, who intervenes and tries to divert the storm. Frightful waves caused by the mighty Chocosanos have the ability to flip large ships and vessels like pancakes.
Reaching Corazon de Jesus, Nargana and nearby Islands
Tourists can take charter flights from Panama City and arrive at the coastal airstrip of Corazon de Jesus. There is no commercial service available. Travelers in Carti can take a boat to the islands. From here, another short boat ride will get you to Isla Waidup, located just a few meters away, and Isla Tigre, the traditional epicenter of the San Blas Archipelago.
Isla Waidup is a beautiful isle located just a stone’s throw away from Corazon de Jesus. Waidup Lodge is a great place to stay, offering up great views of the sea and excellent facilities. Isla Tigre is another traditionally sensitive and less populated town located just a few meters away. The traditional events in the town are renowned all over the archipelago. It also houses beautiful thatched cabins on stilts which are worth a stay. We also talked about the Chocosanos and the dangers it brings to the islands. All these places have the capacity to inspire your awe and render exhilarating experiences.
Conclusion
The above discussion focuses on the beautiful islands of Corazon de Jesus and Nargana. These islands are separated by a short wooden footbridge and they are the most westernized islands in the Comarca. Locals here can be seen donning western clothes, and modern facilities, including a courtroom, police station, hospital and school can be easily found here. A beautiful statue of Charles Robinson, a war hero, located in the center of the town is the main attraction here.
What’s Nearby?
