El Porvenir is a small island that is the capital of the indigenous territory of Guna Yala. El Porvenir is also known as Gaigirgordub, which feels more like a tongue twister than the name of a town and maybe that’s why people chose to stick with El Porvenir. The territory is home to a large number of Gunas, who make up the native communities of Panama and Colombia. People often get confused with the name Guna Yala as it was previously known as Kuna Yala, and before that, as San Blas. San Blas is more popularly associated with Guna Yala as it has been the name for the longest amount of time. Guna Yala means ‘land of the Gunas’ in their language, Kuna.
The San Blas archipelago consists of around 400 islands, out of which around 50 are inhabited, that forms a major portion of the Guna Yala. When the Spanish colonized Panama, the native Gunas fled from the mainland and sheltered in these islands and have been living there ever since. Most of the Guna men can now speak Spanish while the women still confine themselves within their homes and villages. The Gunas are mainly into agriculture, fishing, hand crafts, and recently, tourism as well.
El Porvenir is an administrative region and you can find several government buildings and offices. It also serves as a port mainly for the Gunas to export and import from the mainland.
El Porvenir acts as the best base and gateway to kick start your adventure into the Caribbean archipelago of San Blas. Most of the cluster’s famous islands are very close to El Porvenir and as such, it is a good place to stay and explore.
Museo de la Nación Guna
The museum isn’t much and it certainly falls way behind Smithsonian standards as it is just a simple two-story building that displays some artifacts related to the Gunas. You can see baskets, flutes, and clothing of the native people.
San Blas Islands
As mentioned already, El Porvenir offers excellent opportunities to explore the San Blas archipelago. Since the town is connected to the other islands of the archipelago given its central position, you can opt for day tours or boat cruises to explore.
Boat Tours
There are several boat tours that operate among the islands of the San Blas archipelago. El Porvenir may be added as a stop and sometimes tours depart from here, too. Check out Catamaran Adventures or Lyckaribe, which departs from El Porvenir.
- Lyckaribe Boat: The boat has accommodations, an on-site bar, and a restaurant. Barbeque facilities are also available. They serve full buffets of continental cuisine for breakfast. They also provide snorkeling and fishing trips for guests. You can always relax on the terrace and be taken aback by the vast blue of the Caribbean dotted with numerous islands. The tour includes several water activities, including a stop at a private beach. They also have day excursions to local villages along with a guide to learn about their culture.
- Catamaran Adventures: Catamaran Adventures promises to take you to a different island each day. What other better way to explore the multiple islands in San Blas?! They also provide water activities like snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding. The food is cooked from freshly caught seafood; lobster, crab, prawns, fish and anything else underwater will find your plate! They also change their menu accordingly if you want vegan or vegetarian food. Another unique feature is that they employ Guna staff, which will help you understand and explore the indigenous culture even better.
Shopping
The town has a few shops that sell handicrafts, artwork, and items that are made by the Gunas. There is a co-op that is famous for its handmade blouses called molas. All the products here are reflective of the native indigenous culture.
Getting There
El Porvenir has an airstrip and you can fly here from Panama City. If you are entering the San Blas region from neighboring Colombia through the waters, you will need a visa. You can also get here by boat as several water taxis pass this area.
Stay and Food
Most of the hotels here offer scenic views of the Caribbean and are situated on the waterfront or directly above the water. However, they do not usually have Wi-Fi facilities. The other islands are more famous and have upscale resorts, restaurants and backpacker hostels as well. The best part about these stays is that you can find amazing seafood here; it is freshly caught and cooked.
- Hotel El Porvenir: The hotel is situated near the Playon Chico Beach and has a good restaurant. Families usually prefer this hotel. The hotel also offers snorkeling facilities on the beach.
- Waily Backpackers: This place is situated above water and has a bar facility. It is located very close to the beach. However, they do not offer Wi-Fi.
- Enjoy San Blas: This lodge offers restaurant and bar facilities. It also has a private beach and the surrounding waters are great for snorkeling. The rooms have terraces with views of the garden and the waters as well. There is no Wi-Fi available.
Western Comarca
All of the islands here are owned by the indigenous Guna people even though they might be uninhabited. Keep in mind that scuba diving is not allowed here and the owners might press charges on trespassers. So make sure you get the required permission before entering their land. Most tourists wish to take pictures of and with the native Guna people; just make sure you have their approval as they are quite sensitive.
The main attraction here is visiting the native villages and observing their way of life. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you might also witness their festivals or special occasions. The Guna women specialize in traditional handicrafts and you can also take them back home as souvenirs. Though most of the men wear western clothing nowadays, you can find the women still wearing traditional attire.
All of the islands here still thrive in their raw and natural course without being tainted by human alterations. This pure form of nature is the most unique part of the region that visitors can experience for themselves. This is also one of the main reasons why the waters here are crystal clear.
Getting There
You have to reach El Porvenir before arriving at Western Comarca. There are roads here, but they are not properly paved; they are just dirt roads. Also, be warned, you have to cross a small river which might be risky with a regular car. So make sure you book your travel through the locals; it’s safe and best.
Stay and Food
You will not find many restaurants here and it is best to eat where you’re staying. The cuisine here is mainly indigenous food which includes a lot of seafood and locally grown vegetables, fruits and pulses. The place is very simple and still stuck in olden times so you will not find facilities like Wi-Fi or air conditioning even in the upscale lodgings.
- Dolphin Lodge: Dolphin Lodge is one of the best places to experience a typical island-style stay. There are beautiful wooden cabanas with splendid views of the ocean. They also offer free breakfast for guests. What’s more, they also offer guided tours. You will find hammocks outside among the coconut trees where you can relax, sip on your drink and listen to the sound of the Caribbean.