Las Tablas, the capital of Los Santos province on the Azuero Peninsula, hosts Panama’s most famous Carnaval. For the four days before Ash Wednesday, the town splits into two rival sides, Calle Arriba (Upper Street) and Calle Abajo (Lower Street), each with its own queen, parades, floats and music. Daytime culecos spray the crowds with water from tanker trucks. In 2027, Carnaval falls on Saturday, February 6 to Tuesday, February 9, with Ash Wednesday on February 10.
Update, October 2026: Las Tablas and the rest of Azuero were hit by the magnitude 7.5 earthquake of October 9, 2026. Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo canceled their traditional “Toponazo” on November 3 in solidarity with those affected. As of late October, both 2027 queens had been named, but no final decision on Carnaval 2027 had been announced. Check local news before you book.
Las Tablas Carnaval at a glance
| When | The four days before Ash Wednesday (Saturday to Tuesday) |
| Carnaval 2027 | February 6–9, 2027 (to be confirmed after the earthquake) |
| Carnaval 2028 | February 26–29, 2028 (Ash Wednesday is March 1) |
| Where | Las Tablas, Los Santos province, about 4½–5 hours from Panama City |
| What to expect | Huge crowds, water fights, parades, fireworks and music until dawn |
| Book | Months ahead. Rooms in town sell out early |
Calle Arriba vs. Calle Abajo
The heart of Las Tablas Carnaval is the rivalry between the two halves of town. Each side, called a tuna, chooses a queen months before Carnaval, builds elaborate floats and spends the year raising money and planning. During Carnaval, each tuna parades with its queen, bands and dancers, and sings tonadas, songs that tease the other side. The rivalry is intense but friendly, and people choose sides by family tradition.
Each night, the queens appear on their floats in a different costume, and the competition for the most spectacular float and dress is a big part of the fun. Many Panamanians spend the whole year looking forward to it.
What happens each day
- Before Carnaval: the queens are crowned and the town fills up from Friday.
- Daytime, Saturday to Tuesday: culecos, where tanker trucks hose down the crowds with water while music blasts from huge sound systems. In the heat of the dry season, it’s welcome.
- Evenings: the parades of the two tunas with their queens, floats, bands and dancers, followed by fireworks and dancing in the streets until the early morning.
- Tuesday: traditionally a day to dress in the pollera, Panama’s national dress.
- Ash Wednesday morning: the Entierro de la Sardina (Burial of the Sardine), a mock funeral that closes Carnaval before Lent.
Tips for Carnaval in Las Tablas
- Book early. Rooms in Las Tablas sell out months ahead and prices rise sharply. Many visitors stay in Chitré, Guararé or Pedasí and travel in, or rent a house with friends.
- Expect to get wet. Wear clothes you don’t mind soaking, and keep your phone in a waterproof pouch.
- Bring sun protection. Days are hot and sunny in February.
- Carry little. Leave valuables at your hotel, and bring cash in small bills.
- Plan your transport. Buses from Panama City fill up before Carnaval, and traffic on the way back on Wednesday is heavy. Buy tickets early or leave on Tuesday night.
- Look after yourself. Drink plenty of water along with the beer and seco, and agree on a meeting point with your group in case you get separated.
For more about traveling in the area, see our Azuero Peninsula guide, and for what else happens across Panama during Carnaval season, see the best time to visit Panama.
Other festivals in and around Las Tablas
Fiestas Patronales de Santa Librada and the Festival de la Pollera
Every July, Las Tablas celebrates its patron saint, Santa Librada, with religious processions and festivities. As part of it, the Festival de la Pollera, held since 1957, is usually on July 22. Women and girls parade in the national dress and are judged on the beauty and authenticity of their polleras and jewelry. A full pollera with its traditional gold jewelry and tembleques (beaded hair ornaments) is extremely valuable, and a fine one can take months of handwork.
Festival Nacional de la Mejorana, Guararé
About 15 minutes from Las Tablas, Guararé hosts Panama’s biggest folk festival every September, with delegations from all over the country performing traditional music and dance. It has been held since 1949, tied to the town’s patron saint, the Virgen de las Mercedes.
Things to do in Las Tablas the rest of the year
Iglesia de Santa Librada
The town’s main church, on the central plaza, has a carved and gilded cedar altar. The church was damaged by an earthquake in 1802 and a fire in 1958, and its altar was restored in 2001. Check whether it’s open after the 2026 earthquake.
Museo Belisario Porras
The former home of Belisario Porras, born in Las Tablas, who was president of Panama three times between 1912 and 1924. The Panama Canal opened during his first term, in 1914. The museum displays his belongings and documents.
La Enea and Santa Librada: pollera makers
The villages around Las Tablas and Guararé, especially La Enea, are known for making the finest polleras in Panama. If you’re interested, ask locally about visiting a workshop.
Nearby beaches
Playa Uverito and El Uverito are the closest beaches to Las Tablas, about 10–15 minutes away. Pedasí, Isla Iguana and Playa Venao are about 45 minutes to an hour south. See our Pedasí guide.
How to get to Las Tablas
- By bus: direct buses from the Albrook terminal in Panama City take about 4½–5 hours. Book early around Carnaval.
- By car: take the Pan-American Highway west to Divisa, then the Carretera Nacional south through Chitré to Las Tablas. See renting a car in Panama.
Las Tablas FAQ
Is Las Tablas Carnaval family friendly?
The daytime culecos and parades are fun for families with older kids. Late nights get very crowded and boozy, so many families go in the afternoon and early evening.
Where else can I celebrate Carnaval in Panama?
Panama City holds a free Carnaval along the Cinta Costera, and towns like Penonomé (with its river parade), Chitré, Pedasí and the Caribbean coast have their own celebrations.
Is Las Tablas worth visiting outside Carnaval?
It’s a pleasant, quiet provincial town and a good stop on an Azuero road trip, but most visitors come for the festivals.