Playon‌ ‌Chico‌ ‌And‌ ‌Islands‌ ‌On The East Coast

Playon Chico and the eastern islands fall within the San Blas archipelago, which consists of around four hundred islands out of which only fifty are inhabited. The islands on the eastern part of the San Blas archipelago are relatively unknown and unexplored by tourists compared to popular islands like Carti or El Porvenir. Only the Guna people are allowed to own businesses here and you will find that everything here is run by them. Most of the youngsters speak Spanish, and they barely know English. Also, remember that there are separate rules for the Guna Yala territory and make sure you adhere to them.

As this region is rarely visited, you will find that the surroundings here are relatively untouched by human activity and you will feel like you have traveled to the past with its peaceful, relaxed and slow-paced vibe.

Playon Chico

It is also known by the local Kuna name, Ukupseni and belongs to the Guna Yala territory. This island is a part of the San Blas archipelago and is one of the most populated islands here. It acts as the perfect getaway to the eastern part of the San Blas archipelago. Playon Chico or Ukupseni means ‘Little Big Beach’. Playon Chico is a fairly modern island with an airport, health center, and concrete structures. However, the overall ambiance of the place is still very rustic and will give you a memorable tour of the local Guna culture.

The houses here are pole-style thatched huts made from tree trunks, bamboo, and leaves. The families here live together with children caring for the elderly. These houses usually stay strong for up to thirty years. There are around three thousand people living on this island.

The main occupations of the people here are fishing and making handmade products. The mola is the most popular product of the Gunas. They are handwoven traditional blouses made by the Guna women. They are intricately embroidered and very colorful. They make great pieces of bead jewelry, too.

Something that surprises most people when they come here is the number of churches. It is definitely not something you would expect to see in an indigenous community’s village. As you stroll around the place, you can visit some of the churches and note the ancient architecture. Due to this, there are quite a number of missionaries who reside here as well. In addition, you can also find several liquor shops on the island.

There are plenty of mango and citrus trees on the island, and away from the farmland, there are forests that have some beautiful trails for hiking. One trail leads to a waterfall. There are several uninhabited islands with beautiful beaches and great coral to explore. There are some underwater shipwrecks as well near the island and you can have a great time visiting them. Lobsters and coconuts are abundant here and the Gunas trade them to passing ships for other supplies like hammocks.

You can take a boat tour from here and visit the nearby beaches and islands. A local Guna will accompany you and guide you on the tour which will make it very interesting as you can hear all about the history and facts of the places you come across.

Yandup Island

This island is just a five-minute boat ride from Playon Chico. There is a small lodge here with all the basic amenities and is run by a Spanish-Guna family. They offer trips and excursions around the island as well as snorkeling and hiking trips. The island has clusters of palm trees that provide shade, under which you can relax on the hammocks and take in the peaceful atmosphere of the island.

The island has a small beach with soft, powdery white sand and the waters here are perfectly clear and blue. Do not litter the surroundings at any cost. There are mangrove forests close by and you can walk along the trails and observe the exotic tropical wildlife. There are colorful macaws, toucans, parrots, and monkeys as well. Occasionally, you can spot a raccoon. In the waters close to the shore, you can dive in and collect colorful starfish.

Iskardup Island

This island is located a short boat ride from Playon Chico. There is a decent lodge here as well a restaurant cum bar that sits on stilts above the waters. There are tours on a daily basis that take guests to visit nearby uninhabited islands and also offer snorkeling excursions. The coral here is very healthy and great to explore. Adding to this, there are cultural tours as well, which will take you to the village of Kolebir, a traditional Guna village located on the mainland. There are also options for guided nature walks along beautiful tropical trails to watch the colorful birds. There is also a hike through the jungle that will take you to a waterfall.

San Ignacio de Tupile

The local name of this island is Dadnaggwe Dubbir (try saying that!). The island is charming and has several thatched houses with tidy little gardens that make the island look very pretty. There is not much to do here except stroll around the island, interact with the local Gunas and observe their way of life.

Getting there

There are regular flights to and from Panama City and Playon Chico. There is an airport on the mainland and it is connected to the island by a bridge. It will be one of the most beautiful landings you will ever see, with stretches of clear blue water and tiny dotted islands and patches of land. From here, you have to walk the bridge on foot; it is approximately 200 meters long. Another popular option is to reach the island by boats called kayucos. They are hollowed tree canoes that slightly resemble the western canoe. There are motorboats as well.

Stay and Food

There are no established restaurants here apart from the ones in the lodges. You might find temporary food stalls selling juice or seafood.

Yandup Island Lodge

This is one of the best stays and it is considered the poshest one in this part of the archipelago. It has ten charming cabins with basic facilities and private bathrooms with a cold water supply. The entire lodge is solar-powered. Half of the cabins are located directly above water and offer splendid views of the Caribbean Sea. Despite being so close to the sea, you will only get vegetarian meals here.

Sapibenega Kuna Lodge

It might not feel like a luxury to you, but it is actually one of the most comfortable stays in the area. It is located on the island of Iskardup. There are regular cabins as well as ones directly over the waters. These have balconies and are quite spacious as well. All of the cabins have private bathrooms with cold water. One of the best parts of this lodge is the steady supply of electricity.