The Arrival Of The Spanish
The year 1513 marked the arrival of the Spaniards to the New World, after crossing the Pacific Ocean from the West coast. Vasco Nunez de Balboa traversed the Isthmus of Panama, known historically as the Isthmus of Darien, which was a narrow strip of land between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean and linked the continents of North and South America.
He claimed the Pacific Ocean and surrounding lands in the name of Spain. This act had a tremendous impact on history – Panama Viejo was founded on August 15, 1519 (by Pedrarias Davila) and became the first city along the Pacific shore. At its peak, it was home to nearly ten thousand inhabitants in the seventeenth century and has since been partially restored for tourists, in appreciation of what was once the wealthiest city of its time!
Panama had the shortest route from the Pacific to the Atlantic and very important to the trade industry of the time. Goods were transported to ports in Panama City with the intent of being shipped to South America. In the beginning, Indian labor was utilized but due to disease and malnourishment, the Indian population declined significantly.
In 1517, Batolome de Las Casas suggested using African slaves (from for Guinea, Cameroon, the Congo, and Angola) to continue the transport of goods across the Isthmus. The first slaves (3,500 in total) arrived with Balboa in 1610. With this, the city of Panama’s population grew to 4,800!
Slaves mainly came from Guinea, Cameroon, the Congo Basin, and Angola.
The first Africans to arrive in Panama in 1513 came with Vasco Núñez de Balboa. The population of the city In 1610 consisted of 548 white men, 303 white women, 156 white children, 146 mulattoes, 148 West Indian blacks, and 3,500 slaves.
Panama, initially, was a strategic point for the conquest expeditions heading to South America. Later, it became one of the most important commercial routes in history. The city prospered for a century, with more than 5000 houses present. However, most of these were destroyed by fire in 1671 following Henry Morgan’s attack. The city was then moved to Casco Viejo.
Buildings In The Panama Viejo
La Merced Convent Complex - Conjunto Conventual De La Merced
In 1522, the Mercedarian friars arrived on the Isthmus and obtained a large lot at the western end of the city which was used to build a large church. Luckily, the church was not damaged by the fire during Morgan’s attack. The church included four confraternities: Our Lady of Solitude, Our Lady of Candelaria, Our Lady of Saint Katherine, and Our Lady of the Holy Waters. Historians believe that due to its location on the outskirts of the city, it missed Morgan’s attack. Others, however, believe the pirates used it as a fortress.
After the city was destroyed, the church was used as the foundation for the new church in a new location located in the Old Quarter. The front of the church was dismounted and rebuilt at the new temple while the remaining church walls were used to build the city walls.
Matadero Bridge - Puente Del Matadero
The Matadero Bridge was built over the Algarrobo River and was the entry point to the city. It was built in 1567 to accommodate difficulties presented by the tides. It was initially constructed out of wood and was replaced in 1607 with a stone version. It got its name from a slaughterhouse located in that part of the city (Matadero is a slaughterhouse in Spanish). It was used for vehicles until 1953 was modified many times during the twentieth century.
Nativity Fort - Fortin De La Natividad
Once you pass the Matadero Bridge you come to the Nativity Fort. It was built in the seventeenth century and housed twelve soldiers and four pieces of artillery. It acted as the main defense for the city from the West. Historians believe that Henry Morgan may have entered the city via the Matadero Bridge to attack the Nativity Fort.
Panama Viejo Cathedral - Conjunto Conventual de San Francisco
The Franciscans were the first to arrive in the Americas. The monks lived in extreme poverty which is often characteristic of their order. They fulfilled charitable duties and welcomed members from other orders as well as travelers on their way to Peru. The order lived in a provisional building before occupying a privileged piece of land that faced Carrera Road with views of the ocean. Due in part to contributions from neighbors, a dormitory with large dimensions was built to house approximately sixty monks between 1589 and 1601.
In 1603, after many years of trying, construction finally began. It was the largest convent in Panama City and took up approximately two blocks of land space. It had a chapel dedicated to Saint Anthony with an engraving of Saint France. The altar was dedicated to Saint Elroy and consisted of an altarpiece of Saint Cosme and Saint Damian. It also included a dormitory surrounded by a wall without windows.
San Juan De Dios Hospital - Hospital de San Juan de Dios
The Saint Sebastian Hospital was built two years after the foundation of the city itself. It could only cover basic needs and emergencies as it was scarcely funded. Modest, small and made out of boards, it existed until the year 1540. With the help of alms from the neighborhood, a new wooden construct was built, which provided better care and also served as a housing unit for hospital workers. Despite its modifications, it was continuously overflowing with patients, requiring it to be shut down for a period of time due to lack of funds.
In 1575, under the operation of women and slaves, Saint Sebastian Hospital once again opened its doors to those in need of care. It was managed vigilantly by a steward appointed by the Bishop or the Court. This individual was usually an inhabitant of the city and in charge of supervising the alms and rent of the hospital as well as the maintenance and repair of the houses that it owned.
In 1585, thanks to donations, they were able to buy four houses to rent, and the hospital moved to a more spacious location on Carrera Road; open towards the ocean. It would seem that in 1610 the hospital had approximately ten houses that were for rent. With scarce means and many difficulties, the hospital was in a critical state of abandon, with very deficient medical attention, and within its walls, more patients died than were healed.
In 1620, the city called upon the order of San Juan de Dios to take over the hospital, which accounts for its current name. Four friars from Lima were put in charge of management and by 1629, were able to prove that the mortality rate had gone down due to their intervention.
The building consisted of a large stonewall house, including a church, cloisters, salons, rooms, and patios. It also acted as the Military Hospital and took up and the entire block of land space! At one point, the San Juan friars had twenty houses for rent. This helped to subsidize the hospital’s growing expenses. The number of patients was directly proportional to the volume of passengers, those that made their way through the Isthmus, including poor women and soldiers. The wealthy people at that time chose to be treated in their own homes by certified doctors.
La Concepción Convent Complex - Conjunto Conventual de La Concepción
The complex consisting of the Church and the Conception Convent was home to the only female religious congregation in all of Panama. The sisters of Our Lady of Conception founded this community in 1598, which quickly grew in numbers. In 1640, a new stonewall church was erected, following a devastating earthquake, and was yet to fully completed by the year 1671.
Today, in what was once the convent, stands the ruins of a great cistern, the only one of its kind within Panama Viejo. Built during the mid-seventeenth century, it is of considerable size (occupying approximately two city blocks of land space) and can accommodate over 32,757 gallons (124,000 liters) of water! Surrounded by a masonry wall with four vaults (supported by stone arches and columns), it is truly a sight to behold!
La Compañía De Jesús Convent Complex - Conjunto Conventual de la Compañía de Jesús
La Compañía de Jesús Convent Complex is located near the Main square between Empedrada and Obispo Streets. It was founded in 1578 by Miguel de Fuentes, a Jesuit priest, whose order consisted of five priests in a single house in the neighborhood. It was originally built from wood with stone incorporated into its construction in the early seventeenth century. It followed the design of Father Andres Alonso de Valladolid, who was also an architect and lived in Panama in 1610. The priests of the order helped build it using only funds received from alms.
It was recently discovered that clay was used as the mortar, instead of lime which was common at the time. The church had three naves and was very high. The main cloisters had a wooden gallery, of which now only the foundation remains. The temple had two accesses, one to the east near Empedrada Street, with the main entrance facing a cross street.
The stonewall ruins of today date back to 1621, following a devastating earthquake. The Jesuits who lived during this time dedicated their lives to public education and the Catechism of Indigenous people. After the cathedral, the church of the Compañía was considered the most prestigious temple in Panama. During the seventeenth century, it served as a place of worship even when in ruins or in various states of repair. The convent has since been updated and is used as a place to educate young people on the colonial history of Panama.
Cathedral – Catedral
In 1535, the construction of the cathedral building began upon the arrival of Bishop Fray Tomas de Berlaga. It was initially built out of wood and later constructed with masonry after it was destroyed by fire in 1540. In 1587, it was once again rebuilt using, since masonry work was not possible at the time. By 1610, however, it was in a state of complete ruination.
The current cathedral was built between 1619 and 1626. Bishop Francisco de Cámara began the process and Cristóbal de Armiñán was hired to construct the new building out of stone. It was described by Juan Requejo Salcedo back in 1640 as follows: “it is all out of stone and masonry, paved with bricks, with three wide naves of considerable length of approximately one hundred and thirty feet with shelving made out of a very strong wood that the earth produces called maría, with stone bases and the woodwork very well done out of cedar…”. The effect that the fire of 1644 had on the church is unknown to this day. The top was built more solidly than the rest of the structure and was used as a watchtower. It is currently a popular lookout point for tourists and citizens alike.
The main point of interest regarding the Panama Viejo Cathedral is its inverted orientation. It faces the South as opposed to the East, which was the mandated design (according to the canons) at the time.
Town Hall – Cabildo
In 1521, Panama was officially named for the city by Carlos the Fifth. In 1536, different incomes were used to subsidize the building of the Town Hall. Around 1540, construction on the buildings began. They started out as private housing for the mayor, however, the fire destroyed them before their completion. It was not until 1583 when a new building was erected to hold the Town Council meetings. The earthquake of 1621 destroyed this building which was once again rebuilt in 1640. The Town Hall was the second most important structure in the city, following the Royal Houses.
The remains consist of a stone staircase, where the Sala Capitular was located. In the lower gallery, a pebble-stone floor still exists that characterizes the hallways, vestibules, and patios of other buildings in the Main Plaza.
Alarcón House – Casa Alarcón
Around 1590, the clerics of the time wanted to rebuild the Cathedral, which was in a derelict state. Until only recently, the building was home to the bishop. Hence, it was known as the Bishops House.
The house was sold in an auction in 1640, where it was purchased by a wealthy man named Pedro de Alarcon. He demolished it and in its place, built a large, stone house. The ruins of this house are still visible today. It is still well-preserved in Panama Viejo. Due to its great location, it became the ideal place to host distinguished visitors to the area.
Royal Houses – Casas Reales
The Royal Houses were the site of power and prestige in Panama City. It consisted of The Royal Treasury, the Royal Court, the prison and the governor’s residence. It was built in multiple phases throughout the sixteenth century and was protected by a moat, which separated it from the city. A fortress was constructed as well to house goods and treasures.
In 1580, it was made up of six wood-and-stone buildings which consisted of the Royal Houses. The expenses incurred during its construction (along with the subsequent necessary maintenance) was a heavy burden for the Royal Treasury to bear. The grand vision of Bautista Antonelli and Juan de Texeda of such a large building could not be sustained at the time.
The earthquake of 1621 caused serious structural damage, in dire need of repair. However, by 1647, the buildings were so dilapidated that they were demolished in the hopes of creating new Royal Houses. A proposal was made by Antonio de Fonseca Oriochea in 1641 to rebuild the houses, however, no details of this plan remain.
House Of The Genovese – Casa de los Genoveses
In the seventeenth century, the structures known as the “House of the Genovese”, was built between La Tasca port beach and Calafates Road. It completely dominated the bay of Panama Viejo and was said to be owned by two Genovese merchants named Domingo Grillo and Ambrosio Lomelin. It became the main hub for the trafficking of black slaves into the old city.
Santo Domingo Convent Complex – Conjunto Conventual de Santo Domingo
The convent of the Dominican friars was founded and began various phases of construction in 1571. In 1577, the building was made out of wood with masonry work being added to it at the beginning of the seventeenth century. Due to its now solid brick construction, it was able to withstand the devastation of the earthquake in 1621. It had one cloister wherein the patio was surrounded by a gallery. Its front faced the North while the West looked onto Santo Domingo Road.
San Jose Convent Complex – Conjunto Conventual de San José
The collection of buildings belonging to the Augustinian order was built in the mid-seventeenth century and was located on the North end of Panama Viejo. It was one of the last monasteries established between the years 1604 and 1610. After construction began around 1615, many factors hindered its completion. The president of the court had it demolished, due in part to opposition from the Agustinos Recoletos. Its ruins are still visible today.
King’s Bridge – Puente del Rey
The King’s Bridge was built between 1619 and 1634 and is a great representation of the colonial times in Panama. Its masonry construction was used to access the city. It crossed over the Gallinero River (which is now known as the Abajo River) and connected with Royal Road.
Oeste Houses – Casas Oeste
These houses got their name from their location, which is on the western side of the Main Square, between Carrera Street and Empedrada Street. They were two-story homes that took up a block of land space. They were separated by a hall and wooden walls, with large doors that opened onto the square. It is believed that wealthy people of the time owed these homes. Today, only the bases of the columns remain.
Terrín Houses – Casa Terrín
In 1600, these were built by Francisco Terrín, who was one of the most powerful inhabitants of the city. They took up an entire block and the front faced the square with a large archway.
Main Plaza – Plaza Mayor
The Main Plaza was an irregular design and the center for various social, religious, economic, political and cultural activities of the time. It was relatively small, considering its significance. In 1600, the north side was extended, adding 500 square meters of space to the Plaza! It is still possible today to see the cathedral and town hall on the Eastern side of the square.
City Streets
The 1513, upon the royal decree, it was determined that any new American town should have a clear and concise layout (such as parallel streets and consistent block lengths). The city of Panama, however, was designed not so much according to a specific plan but rather around the local circumstances of the time. For example, the streets were not straight and each block was of a different size.
The importance of the design of Panama City, the main square and the church, in particular, followed the directive principle of the colonial period in Hispanic America and has maintained this ideal throughout history. A large portion of the design of Panama Viejo has been conserved and is still apparent today.
Main Streets of Panama Viejo
Royal Road – La Carrera Road
This was the main road that provided access to and from the city via Matadero Bridge. It was also the entryway for merchandise arriving from the West and from Europe.
Santo Domingo Road
Its name was derived from its location, which ran from the Main Square to Santo Domingo Covenant. This road began at the King’s Bridge and led to the Royal Road. This connected the city with Nombre de Dios and Portobelo, north of the Isthmus of Panama.
Empedrada Road
This road began at the Main Plaza and ended at the San Francisco Convent. San Juan de Dios Hospital, La Concepción Convent, and Compañía de Jesús were all on this road, marking its significance. Its name is derived from the Spanish word ‘empedrada’ meaning ‘pebbled’.
Obispo Street
This street ran east to west and was where the city’s Bishop resided.
There were other significant roads as well including Calafates Road, which got its name from the Spanish word ‘calafatear’ and Pontezuelas Road, that led to the northern outskirts of the city.
Check out my article about new Panama City site in Casco Viejo here.
