Darien is the largest province in Panama and its borders stretch all the way to Colombia in South America. Ironically, it is also the least populated one as most of the land is covered by thick rainforests and mangroves. Darien boasts of a rich natural system and biodiversity, which is a treasure to the planet itself.
The forests here are virgin, wild and still the same as they have been for centuries. Plants, trees, animals, birds, and marine life thrive in an organic fashion, untouched by humans. If you are looking to connect yourself with the purest form of nature, Darien is a great place to visit.
Out of the fifty thousand odd people who live here, almost half of them belong to the indigenous tribes of Embera and Wounaan. They continue to live here in their old traditional ways, deep in the forests without being affected by change.
Remember that before you visit Darien, you must obtain the required permission from your home embassy and the Panamanian officials as well. As you know, Darien has dense forests and there are several safety risks. Make sure you plan your trip with a guide as it is risky to venture out by yourself.
La Palma
La Palma is the capital of the Darien Province and is a small laidback town. People usually prefer La Palma as a base to visit other places in Darien. It is a one-street town, and the main street is named Calle Principal; it is near the boat pier. There are a few restaurants, hotels and bars, summing up pretty much everything there. You can take a 5-minute boat ride to visit the ruins of an old Spanish port, Fuerte San Lorenzo, which once served as a watchtower over the gold mines. On the way, you can spot dolphins in the waters. If you are heading into the Darien reserve or Punta Patino reserve, La Palma is the best place to stock up on necessities, especially food.
Rio Sambu
The river runs amidst thick mangroves and you can find five out of the seven known varieties of mangroves here. The river is very wide and has brown shade throughout. Riding on this river will give you a rare experience as you will not be able to witness such dense wilderness after a few decades. You will also pass by native villages belonging to the Embera and Wounaan. If luck permits, you can shelter at their homes for the night, otherwise you will have to put up a tent. However, beware of insects and carry enough repellent. Flashlights, food, and batteries are a must-have.
Puerto Indio
This is a small indigenous village on the banks of the river Sambu and you can enter with permission from the natives. Don’t try to trespass as the natives might not take it well. The village is made up of thatched huts sitting on uneven rows. Here you can venture into the thick mangrove forests and also see petroglyphs that are centuries old.
Playa Muerto
It is a beach community of natives where you can just relax and enjoy the surroundings. The locals will prepare delicious seafood meals for you on request. You can also take a hike to a nearby waterfall with its amazing crystal clear waters for swimming. With luck, you can also spot a Harpy Eagle.
Punta Patino Nature Reserve
Punta Patino is the largest private reserve in Panama, spanning across thirty thousand hectares. It is managed and owned by the ANCON group, an environmental non-profit organization in Panama. The reserve houses a rich collection of natural ecosystems, including dense rainforests, mangroves, swamps, wetlands, oceans and black sandy beaches. Gray foxes, three-toed sloths, jaguars, night monkeys, Geoffrey’s tamarins, tayras and peccaries live here in plenty.
On the mangrove and wetland side, there are iguanas, crocodiles, and caimans. When it comes to birds, you will find the great Harpy Eagle, black hawks, frigates, Amazon kingfishers, woodpeckers, tanagers, brown pelicans, terns, blue and boat-billed herons, sandpipers and oystercatchers. The salty waters of the Gulf of San Miguel are home to bottlenose dolphins, pilot whales, and humpback whales.
Mogue
The village here shares the same name as the river, Mogue, and there are indigenous Embera communities living here. The Embera are one of the friendliest tribes of Panama and they will gladly welcome you to their villages to show you their lifestyle and also invite you for a home-cooked lunch. You can also stay there overnight, but you will have to ask a guide to check for accommodation. You can watch native dances, buy their crafts and get yourself painted with jagua. Jagua is a juice that is similar to henna and fades from your skin gradually over two weeks. The village lies close to the Punta Patino reserve.
Bahia Pina
Bahia de Pinas or Pinas Bay is the best fishing spot in Panama and is located on the southern coast of the Pacific. The bay is just around 50 km from the border of Columbia. Around three hundred (and counting) world records on deep-sea fishing have taken place here, which is the most for any place on earth. The bay is quite small and is enclosed on both sides by land, making it seem very narrow. The rocky coastline is bounded by wild rainforest mountains.
You can explore the rainforests along with the exotic underwater world. Billfish, barracuda, snapper, roosterfish, tuna, dolphinfish, swordfish, dorado, wahoo, blue, black and striped marlin live here in plenty. There are bigger inhabitants as well, like bottlenose dolphins, rays, sharks and humpback whales. The government of Panama has banned all commercial fishing ships from entering the bay and it is protected by them. Only the locals are allowed to go out to the bay for fishing. If you love hiking, you can also go on a mesmerizing three-hour hike that will lead you to a waterfall.
Getting There
The Inter-Americana from Panama City runs for 266 km and stops at Yaviza. From here, it will be just basic roads and boat travel.
Stay
As Darien has not yet been hit with urbanization, the stays you find here will be very basic.
§ Tropic Star Lodge: It overlooks the Bahia Pinas and has sixteen basic rooms. Several fishing records have been set here. There is a restaurant-bar and a pool as well. They arrange legendary fishing trips.
§ Punta Patino Lodge: The lodge is located on a ridge inside the Punta Patino Nature Reserve. There are ten cabins with private baths (cold water only) and air-conditioning as well. All three meals are served. They offer guided activities for guests, like hiking, boating, swimming and night tours. The views from the lodge are simply breathtaking.
§ Community Lodging: This hostel in Playa Muerto provides very basic facilities. They have floor mattresses with mosquito nets and shared washrooms. Really good meals are served.
Food
It is hard to find eateries here and you will have to eat in the lodges and stays.
§ Lola Grill: This quaint little cafe in La Palma serves really good seafood, especially fish and shrimp in Panamanian style. The grilled meat is a favorite, too.
§ Mi Nina Nidia: It is set crookedly overlooking the main street in Yaviza, but it is the only place you will find in the area for a quick meal. Breakfasts are good.
What’s Nearby?
