Fashion has always been an integral part of world history, and it is fascinating to wonder about the type of clothes that pirates wore in the golden age of piracy. Did you know that in the seventeenth century, there were laws restricting common people from buying clothes that were manufactured for the upper class? The seventeenth century was not only the golden age of piracy, but also a significant period for fashion.
Unlike in today’s dynamic world, where everyday a new fashion trend is introduced, the clothing style in the seventeenth century was constant. There were set fashion styles for each class in society, and unless a big development in the fashion industry occurred, everyone wore similar clothes.
Today when you glance down the street, you’ll notice a variety of fashion choices, but if you imagine a seventeenth-century street in Central America, then almost everybody would be wearing similar clothes. In the seventeenth century, piracy was in full swing, but fashion trends were slow and sustained for a longer period.
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The dresses from a particular century also depict the lifestyle of people during that timeline. In the seventeenth century, logic was employed while manufacturing dresses – more than appearance, comfort was considered throughout the majority of the seventeenth century.
The clothes of the seventeenth-century Caribbean islands were highly influenced by Spanish culture. After Spain colonized Central America, the Spaniards started migrating to the colonies – Mexico, Panama, Peru, etc. The Spanish population brought their fashion trends along with their wealth.
From rich people to pirates, everyone’s dress was partly inspired by the clothing style of the Spaniards. Though the pirates of the Caribbean were free from any regional restrictions, they wore clothes similar to that of any other official seamen.
Let’s find out what clothes were worn by rich people, poor people and pirates in the seventeenth century.
The Rich
The main distinction of the dresses worn by the rich was the material used. The upper class did not settle for anything less than soft and comfortable. Silk and leather were the prime materials used in the clothes of the upper class.
Men
In the seventeenth century, shirts were worn as the first layer of clothing. Plain shirts made of silk were hidden under other layers of dress. Shirts were loose-fitting garments with a length that reached a man’s waist.
Collars
The main highlight of seventeenth-century shirts were the collar trends. In the early seventeenth century, the elaborate ruffle collars were replaced by the flat, lacy collar. However, by the mid-seventeenth century, jabot collars were popular among rich men. Jabot collars were detachable frills on seventeenth-century shirts. These lace or cambric frills appeared above the doublet and were a prime part of upper class clothing. On special occasions, the rich liked to decorate their collars with ornaments.
Doublet
The top second layer worn by a seventeenth-century rich man was a padded, knee-length doublet. For the upper class, doublets were made of fine material. After the mid-seventeenth century, the length of the doublet started to shorten. It was worn more like a waistcoat. In the seventeenth century, the fittings of a doublet also changed. Traditionally, they were loose and straight cut, but during this time, waist-cut doublets were prevalent among the rich. Also, buttons were now placed in the front, unlike the earlier doublet with side openings.
Jerkins
A general rich man in the seventeenth century wore a three-piece outfit. The first layer consisted of a shirt with a jabot collar, then a doublet, and finally, leather jerkins comprised the third layer.
Leather jerkins were decorative overcoats worn to keep people warm during the harsh winters in Central America. Jerkins were well fitted, and the sleeves were elbow length. The length was short, and the look was gentle.
Hats
Cavalier hats were the luxury of the rich. Cavalier hats were wide brimmed and they gained popularity in the seventeenth century. The wide brim was often decorated with jewels or ostrich feathers. The rich’s cavalier hats were made from expensive beaver felt. It was so costly that only the wealthiest class could afford it. The cost added to the beauty of the hats, and thus whoever could afford it wore it with pride.
Lowers
Rich men in the seventeenth century wore breeches as lowers. In the early seventeenth century, breeches were knee-length and were attached to the doublet with hooks. The breeches worn by the rich were decorated with rows of ribbons and lace. By the mid-seventeenth century, full-length breeches became popular among the upper class. The length of the breeches increased, and the technique for wearing them changed. At that time, breeches also came with buttons on the waistband. The waistband fit tightly, and the buttons placed in front guaranteed a rich look.
Another type of breech known as a petticoat breech gained popularity among the rich. Petticoat breeches resembled skirts, and they were either bifurcated or open. The length was restricted to the knee, and the purpose was comfort. These were also decorated with rows of ribbons on the hem, side seam, and the waistband.
Stockings
Tight-fitting stocking made from fine fabric were worn under boots. The silk stockings of the rich were extremely fine and soft.
Footwear
Tall leather boots were the favorite of rich men in the seventeenth century. The boots were buffed, and the top was wide enough to be crushed down for a better look.
Women
Bodice
The dress of seventeenth-century women was divided into two parts: the bodice and the skirts. The bodice for rich women was silk or velvet cloth used to cover the upper part of the body. The bodice was tight-fitting, and each shoulder was covered with lace. The attire was richly patterned and often had elbow-length puffed sleeves. In winter seasons, women could also be found wearing English hoods.
Skirts
Long skirts were the luxury of the rich. Full-length soft skirts, richly patterned, were the uniform for rich women in the seventeenth century. The skirts were decorated with ribbons and lace. Women wore a farthingale beneath the skirt to provide a wider, block-like shape. These expensive skirts were extensively embroidered with gold and silver.
Farthingale
In order to broaden the waistline of a woman, a farthingale was worn beneath her skirts. A farthingale is like a skeleton that gives shape to a skirt. It was a cage-like structure that forced a skirt to conform to the desired shape. Though these were worn under petticoats, the upper class needed them to be heavily ornamented.
Footwear
A pointed toe shoe made from leather and decorated with rich embroidery was the staple footwear of seventeenth-century women. Rich women also preferred to wear heels since the raised height symbolized the upper class.
The Poor
Poor people in the seventeenth century were not in the least concerned about changing fashion trends. The lower class only focused on affordable dress. Poor people were the laborers, and thus their clothes were free and easy to work in. The attire was also designed to be durable.
Men
Shirts
Unlike rich people, poor men wore shirts made from a coarser woolen fabric. Shirts for the poor were extremely loose in order to allow for free movement.
Collars
Poor people were often seen wearing shirts without a collar. However, they sometimes used a rectangular kerchief made from cheap material to wrap around the neck like a collar.
Doublet
The poor still wore the long and loose doublets. The length was below the knee level and the fit straight cut. Doublets for the poor were plain, and the only purpose was to keep their bodies warm.
Hats
Hand-knit, woolen skullcaps were the headdress of the poor. Around the mid-seventeenth century, poor men also started to wear cavalier hats made from cheap felt.
Stockings
The poor wore plain stockings made from a rough woolen fabric.
Footwear
Hard-sole footwear was prevalent among the lower class. Durability was the goal of such shoes. They were far from comfortable, but the workers were satisfied with the inexpensive price and long life.
Women
Bodice
Loosely fitted, woolen-fabric bodices were affordable for poor women. Minimal ornamentation was found in such bodices. Lace and ribbons were also missing from poor women’s attire.
Skirt
Skirts were plain, and only rarely could any pattern or design be found on poor women’s skirts. Embroidery was too costly for lower class women. Along with the fabric used in the skirts, the shape also differed from that of upper class attire. The waistline was comparatively less lifted in the case of a poor woman.
Farthingale
Farthingales were made from buckram, and the structure was different from the expensive farthingales. Since it was hidden under the skirt, no decoration was preferred by poor women.
Apron
A white apron usually dominated a poor women’s attire.
Footwear
Footwear for poor men and women was almost the same. Poor women did not have the luxury to enjoy soft-sole, toe-pointed shoes. Thus, they wore blunt-pointed, hard-sole footwear.
The Pirates
Pirates had the privilege of wearing both cheap and luxurious clothing (the latter often stolen). Though the material would vary based on the acquisition of the attire, all pirates followed a common pattern. Pirate attire was based on simplicity and on protecting them from the elements. Their clothes were generally dark-colored to help them hide from enemies. They were often colored with ink for this purpose.
Shirts
Loose-fitted shirts without collars were prominent in the golden age of piracy. Pirates could not afford to be disturbed or restricted by their dress. They wore loose shirts to allow free movement. Often kerchiefs were used to wrap around the neck.
Hats
A headdress was important for pirates to protect against the bright light and allow for proper vision. In the early seventeenth century, woolen skull caps were used by pirates. By the late seventeenth century, pirates started wearing tricorn hats. Tricorn hats were a modification of cavalier hats. Since the wide brim would interfere with a pirate’s work, they pinned the brim, forming three triangles in the hat. Hats were generally worn by captains and chief pirates.
Lowers
Pirates were inclined towards comfort and ease of movement, and thus the lower garments were baggy and loose. Knee-length breeches were popular among pirates as well. Baggy breeches attached to the doublet with hooks made up the bottom portion of a pirate’s uniform. Shirts were always tucked in the lowers.
Jewelry
Pirates were often found adorning themselves with stolen metal articles. Rings, necklaces, and earpieces were common in the golden age of piracy.
Overcoats
Pirates wore loose and straight-cut doublets as overcoats. Wealthy buccaneers and privateers also wore jerkins. Though the doublet was loose, a belt allowed pirates to store small weapons like daggers.
Footwear
Pirates were generally barefooted. They sailed in the seas, dealing with waves, and thus it was more comfortable for them to work barefooted. However, it was not unusual to find pirates wearing stolen boots.
Eye Patch
An interesting part of pirate clothing is assumed to be the eye patch. In reality, eye patches were used by pirates if they lost their eye while fighting during a loot.
Spanish Soldiers Uniforms
The soldiers needed both functional and protective clothing. Their clothes were similar to
civilian dressing since the civilian clothing was inspired by the military uniforms only.
Padded doublets: The long loose overcoat was padded for the soldiers. In order to allow free
movement loose sleeves were attached to the doublets.
Collars: Stiff ruff was popular among the high authority soldiers while the men on lower
ranks wore a kerchief around their neck.
Stuffed breeches: The lower part was covered by knee-length stuffed breeches. The stuffing
gave it a baggy look and protected the soldiers.
Stockings: red stockings were pretty common among the soldier. The fitting was slim and
covered the leg below the knee.
Felt hat: Alike the civilians, soldiers also wore felt hats during the 17th century. The shape
of the headdress was generally tricorn.
Armour: Though the 17th century marked a decline in the use of armor it was a prominent
part of soldier’s attire. Only soldiers belonging to certain ranks were find wearing armors.
Sash: A red sash was worn by the soldiers to portray the country they were serving for.
Earlier a red cross was seen on the back and the breast but later a red sash around the breast
was worn to distinguish.
Belt: The whole attire was accessorized by a belt around the waist that helped in carrying
swords, firearms, and other weapons.
Conclusion
The dressing style in the seventeenth century was indeed intriguing. Clothing gradually transformed from loose fitting to slim, more like the fit we know today. While the rich were invested in elaborate patterns and embroideries, the poor and pirates preached simplicity.
